Kusadasi, Turkey

We arrived around 9:00 this morning in Kusadasi. People were eager to get to shore and begin the four and a half hour tour to Ephesus. We packed plenty of water for hydration and sunscreen to shield us from the hot sun. Over half of the ship was signed up for the two our offerings. I chose to visit the Terraced houses due to my passion for architecture.

After our return from Ephesus we experienced a true Turkish rug sales pitch. Treated with apple tea, Turkish coffee, local wine and beer and a light snack of feta cheese with herbs wrapped in lavash. It was all very tasty and the rug tossing and rolling was incredible.

After walking around Kusadasi for about an hour we checked in with a local to find the best spot to try a Turkish kebab. It was recommended by Mert as something that one must try when in Turkey. The kebab spot was quaint and like many café’s throughout overlooked the port. We admired the Star Clipper while our palettes admired the taste of the Turkish kebab.

Sunset sail away and then off to dinner!

September 7, 2008 - Paros, Greece

Our approach into Paros this morning, it was hard to deny two things; one the air seemed cooler than in our previous weeks travel through the area – a welcome change! And with the tourist season drawing to an end with the coming of September, the crowds were undeniably thinner and the presence of ferries and cruise ships had dropped off considerably.

I was pleasantly surprised as I stepped off the ship’s tender into the busy little port town, Parikia. For a Sunday morning, there was a lot going on. Cafes were busy serving up warm cups of coffee, cappuccinos and warm pastries. Shops were open, selling everything from fine table linens and pottery (locally made) to post cards and tee shirts. I found a small antique shop that occupied me for over an hour and I browsed antique ecclesiastical items and olive and Ouzo crockery dating to the early 1800s.

Some passengers took local transportation to the nearby town of Naoussa where high-end designer shops cater to the large yachts anchored and tied along side in the harbor. I chose to linger in Parikia, where church bells echoed through the streets, signaling the end of morning services while families gathered to celebrate Sunday with friends over a noon time meal at the outside cafes that lined the narrow streets overlooking the water.

Parikia certainly rated high on my list of photogenic Greek towns. At the heart of the port town is a typical Cycladic chora, complete with the odd wall of a Venetian kastro, built on the site of the ancient acropolis in the early 1200s from fragments of the ancient temples that stood on the site. Pink and red Bougainvillea tumble over fences, rooftop garden walls and weaves its way up the sides of brick and white washed buildings. Charm does not begin to describe the effect. This is a place I would like to return and stay a few days – immerse myself in the laid back atmosphere. Yep – I could get used to this.

September 6, 2008 - Athens, Greece

We bid a fond farewell to 120 passengers today while we welcomed 120 new ones. 50 people remain on board from the first 10 days – continuing on with us for the Greek Connection portion of the tour.

Many took a few hours this morning to go into old town Athens to explore and have lunch. It always amazes me how quickly the ship can “turn around” and make ready for another tour. Cabins stewards busy themselves readying each cabin for the new passengers while large crates of food, beverage, water and other necessities are loaded and stowed. During this process however, the ship really gets turned upside-down - so we thought it best to get out of the way and let them do their work.

I have been to the Plaka and Monastrika area in Athens a number of times. It was 5 years ago, almost to the day, that Tom and I found out from our daughter, Christie that we were going to be grandparents. Today, I found myself looking for that perfect gift for my now 4 year old granddaughter, Katie! Time flies!

Back on the ship we are all accounted for and ready to set sail at 6 pm – just in time for a sunset sail away. We welcome our newcomers on board and begin to settle in to another great week exploring Greece and Turkey.

September 5, 2008 -Mykonos, Greece

According to mythology and my tour book, this island took its name from the hero, Mykonos, who was the grandson of the God, Apollo. Located off the southwest coast is the small island of Delos, which was the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.

Mykonos was a religious and commercial center during antiquity and was part of the Byzantine Empire when the Venetians ruled. Famed pirate, Barbarossa, took the island from the Venetians for the Ottoman Empire and during the Turkish occupation, Mykonos was a popular seafaring and trade center. It was only after the Greek Revolution that the island was liberated and united with Greece.

Approaching the island, I was taken by the large windmills along the shoreline and up into the hillsides. Indeed, they looked liked large white birds calling me to take a closer look. And a closer look is exactly what I spent my time in port doing. From one end of town I wound my way through colorful alleyways that were overflowing with colorful local goods from the area. Olive oil and related products, spices and herbs, capers, figs and various nuts and legumes provided an aromatic stroll. White linen, leather goods and sandals and lots of jewelry stores made up the rest. I decided early on in my walk to just get lost and I found it was quite easy to do!

Two hours into my wandering, I came out on the side of a large hill overlooking the bay where the Star Clipper stood at anchor. Here was the site of three large windmills and a small chapel. White washed buildings with brightly painted doorways were tucked in between ancient walls and rock structures. My camera’s eye did not know which way to turn! Indeed, each nook and cranny was full of the character I had come in search of. Children played stickball while a small boy played a tiny bouzouki for donations. A woman hung her laundry while two small girls played what appeared to “ring around the rosie”.

Glancing at my watch I am quickly reminded that it is a long way back down to the port and I must catch a tender back to the ship by 4:30. Sadly, I pull myself away and head down the hillside towards the port. Sail away at 5 pm was spent in the bowsprit nets, providing the perfect way to watch Mykonos disappear on the horizon as we sailed towards Athens and the end of the first leg of our trip. Tomorrow, The Greece Connection tour commences with 120 new passengers joining us in Athens.

September 4, 2008 - Santorini, Greece

Santorini, Greece was so named by the Venetians who once controlled the island, in honor of Saint Irene. It’s white washed homes and blue rooftops set a magical scene, quintessentially what we think of when we think of the Greek Isles. But Santorini is actually very different from the rest of the Cycladic Island chain by virtue of its geological structure. 600-foot sheer cliffs dominate the bay. The only active volcano in the eastern Mediterranean is in Santorini and our slow approach from sea allowed us a close up of the ancient caldera that now forms part of the bay. There are some that believe that Santorini is actually the part of the legendary continent of Atlantis. Known also as Kallisti, meaning the most beautiful, Santorini totally lives up to her name!

Some people chose to ride on donkey back up the steep incline to the old town while others opted for the 4-euro funicular ride to the top. Either way, the view from atop Santorini is worth getting there- any way you can!

I chose to enjoy a leisurely walk through the winding streets and alleyways that make up the Old Town. Uneven stairways and cobblestone made from volcanic material made it a challenge to stay on my feet. Colorful storefronts empty into the walkways with art, jewelry and local handiwork. The smell of garlic is in the air as local restaurants are full with people sampling Greek fare. Greek music and bouzoukis fill the streets. Melanie, Tom and I stopped in to a local café that overlooked the harbor and enjoyed a cool (albeit expensive) drink while we watched the local color of the day.

An elegant Captain’s Dinner, followed by the passenger and crew talent show topped off a great day. I think everyone is enjoying the trip. 50 passengers will remain on board when we come into Athens the day after tomorrow and we will board 110 new passengers for the 7-day Greek Islands Extension tour. I am retiring early tonight as tomorrow in Mykenos promises to be perfect – and long!

September 3, 2008 - Ithion, Greece

The small fishing village of Ithion is famous for its octopus and squid dishes- and cold beer. But it is the town of Sparta and the ancient city of Mystra that called me over the hills of the Peloponese (sp?) to explore the magnificent ruins and sanctuaries of Mystra. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then the following photos tell it all. I can't begin to describe the beauty of this spot, which far exceeded my expectations. I will allow the photos to tell the story for I can not begin to do it justice.
Next stop, Santorini, Greece. Until then - enjoy the photos!

September 2, 2008 - Lazy Day At Sea

After a long and busy day in Corfu, a day at sea was a welcome respite. So many things were on the schedule to do beginning with morning yoga, followed by a seminar presented by one of our passengers who is in the medical profession. A wonderful photo presentation by another couple covering their recent trip to Antarctica. They had a tremendous selection of penguin photos to share. I had no idea there were so many varieties- 18, I believe. Sure whetted my appetite to take that long dreamed about vacation to the Antarctica.

Afternoon dance lessons offered by another passenger was a lot of fun and came in handy for the evening dance competition. A lot of us gathered at the back of the ship for sunset before going to dinner. As always, it did not disappoint.

Tomorrow we anchor off of Yithion, Greece. A small fishing village, it is known as the octopus and squid capital of Greece. If one does not take the side trip to Mistras near Sparta, the next best thing to do is to find a little cafe in town to enjoy the local fare and a cold beer. The ruins at Mistras is are widely known to be some of the best representations of Byzantine buildings and religious frescoes. I will include photos tomorrow of our trip there.

Signing off after another great day - from somewhere in the Aegean Sea!

September 1, 2008 - Corfu, Greece

What a day.

Began the morning with a brisk walk into Old Town Corfu. Even in the early hours the small city was bustling with open air parkets selling fruits and vegetables along with the local wines, honey and olive oil.

I wandered most of the morning through the narrow alleyways of Old Town. It reminded me a bit of the Latin Quarter in Paris... very colorful. The Old Town area was just named a Unesco World Heritage Center and will soon be closed off to traffic. People will be able to stroll without worrying about traffic hazards and motor scooters humming in and out.

Lunch in Old Corfu was super. A greek salad, some Tsatziki and spinach pie - heaven.

The afternoon I spend with Lidja, our tour director. We went in search of 85 bottles of olive oil for our guests joining us next week in Athens. Having lived here several years ago, Lidja knew her way around and showed me some lovely highlights... a Monastery high in the hills as well as small towns that dot the countryside. A few towns had streets so narrow between buildings that I thought the ar would not even fit. This did not even phase Lidja as she was all to familiar with Corfu and all the nooks and crannies.

Tours headed out throughout the day to the nude beach, Achillion Palace and to Old Town. The evening entertainment from a local folkloric group that serenaded us with Bouzouki (sp?) music and dancing after dinner and I fell into bed at 11:30, happily exhausted from the day. Early yoga class tomorrow so I will sign off now! Tomorrow is another day at sea.

August 31, 2008 - Day at Sea

A lazy day at sea was in order after three busy port days. Passengers relaxed, slept in, sunned, got massages and caught up on their reading. Even on board seminars were held - presented by our own passengers wishing to share knowledge about places they have been, photos of far away places not yet visited by many.

Enjoyed swimming in the aft pool and receiving a massage by Marietta, the ships Asian massage therapist. I was so relaxed I actually almost fell off to sleep.

The food is good on board - especially the desserts (much to my waistline's dismay).

People are enjoying the trip and itinerary, We decided to delete a port of call having visited it late last week before the cruise. The dry climate in and around Kotor, Montenegro was experiencing wildfires when we were there last week. Any while the evening was lovely with the small walled city lit up and the small restaurants serving up everything from pizza to pasta and fish - our stop would only allow us a 4 hour daytime stay - We did not want to chance the fires still smoldering - muddying the blue skies with a smokey haze - especially since we could not stay until evening. A longer stay in Corfu was planned along with another day at sea. Disappointing to some - most agreed that they change was a good one.

Tomorrow we come alongside Corfu at 8 am with a departure of 11:45. Should allow everyone to enjoy this beautiful, Greek port to its fullest. More tomorrow!

August 30, 2008 - Dubrovnik

Sailing into Dubrovnik this morning was magical. Situated on the southernmost part of the Republic of Croatia, Dubrovnik is the administrative seat of the area and is rich in cultural and historical monuments. A Unesco World Heritage site, one just has to gaze at the walled city from the sea to understand what an immense undertaking it must have been to construct such a sight.

Two large Costa cruise ships in port today helped make my decision to stay on board until later in the afternoon- after the hoards of cruisers leave on their floating cities!

Evening in Dubrovnik is even more enchanting than daytime. The sun going down over the walled city - swallows darting through the long alleyways, out for their evening meal. Several of us went into town to enjoy a typical Croatian. We found a lovely tavern that appeared to be a popular place for the locals - just what I wanted! After an enjoyable evening we strolled back to our tender while enjoying a gelato. Someone told me that if you walk while eating a gelato - it doesn't count... sounded logical to me.

Tomorrow we have a day at sea and I am looking forward to having no place to go. I plan to just relax and enjoy the ship and our passengers. Good night from Dubrovnik!